The Venice Blog

As the CEO of ACTV SpA, the company running the water bus service in the lagoon of Venice as well as the metropolitan bus service in Mestre, recently announced, two and three new vaporetti will be acquired in 2007 and 2008 respectively, replacing the oldest ones in the ACTV fleet. The company’s dockyard near Sant’Elena will be entirely transferred to the Tronchetto, giving the opportunity of revitalizing the east side of the city. Another good news: from spring on, the frequency of Line n° 1, which runs from the Piazzale Roma via the Grand Canal and St. Mark’s to the Lido, will be reduced from 10 to seven minutes, which will hopefully lead to a stress-free ride on the most beautiful street in the world.

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Some photos from today’s so-called Regata delle Befane, a traditional rowing along the Grand Canal with members of the Bucintoro rowing club dressed as befane - old women who bring, according to the tradition, gifts on the day of the Epiphany.

Last sunday, the Venice blog took advantage of the fine weather and took a gondola ride throuth the sestiere of San Polo, starting from the franciscan church of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, via the Rio di San Polo and the Rio delle Do Torre and finally the Grand Canal. This route is to be preferred over Rialto-Rio S. Luca-Rio de la Fava-Rialto for the quality of the monuments and the lighting. I selected a gondolier, whose equipment was entirely black and  therefore historically “correct”. As is generally known,  the Venetian Senate prohibited  colourful gondolas as early as in 1562 to  fight the patricians’ ever growing pomposity, but nowadays, some gondoliers toady with gondolas having red and golden decoration.

Especially while gliding nearly soundless along the San Polo canal, I encountered new astonishing perspectives, since most of the buildings, such as the gothic Bernardo palace or Corner palace, have their main facade and entrance on a canal, so I  asked the gondolier to slow down on several occasions. A ride by boat is the only way to perceive Venetian architecture correctly. Finally turning into the Grand Canal near Ca’Pesaro was a great experience of a sudden vastness, with the palaces on the north bank, especially the so-called Ca’ d’Oro, were illuminated by the lutescent winter sun. Especially in the winter months, with the city being calm, a gondola ride is a outstanding esthetic experience, and entirely different from the daily use of the traghetto gondola across the Grand Canal.

On December, 11, the historic part of Venice finally got what other Terraferma cities have had for quite a time: paper, glass/metal and residual waste now have to be collected separately, and are disposed on different weekdays. So far, the new system flows smoothly. Furthermore, the administration announced the introduction of civil inspectors to hunt down a bunch of fellow citizens, who accumulate unsorted piles of rubbish in front of other peoples’ homes.

The mayor of Venice, Massimo Cacciari, initiated a internet photo album on the 1966 flood, called Album di Venezia. While certain technical aspects of the site may be disturbing, the photos are an excellent documentation.

As I just found on this german real estate site, the 15th century gothic Palazzo Widmann Barozzi, vis-à-vis of the Salute church, adjacent to the famous Palazzo Contarini Fasan and decorated with fine 18th century frescoes by Antonio Visentini and others, is for sale. The property consists of a 632 m² apartment located in the 2nd floor, a 150 m² Grand Canal entrance and a exclusive garden. However, the price of 12 million Euro is exaggerated even for a palace in this position.

In the occasion of the Venice film biennale in last september, Microsoft boss William Henry Gates chartered a luxury motorboat. Few days before his arrival, he sent a employee to Venice to check the boat and some routes in the lagoon. But a carabinieri patrol stopped the vehicle and sequestrated it, accusing the driver of pursuing a abusive transportation service. Now, the case went public: the boat owner’s attorney claims that the contract of charter has been regularly disposed at the port office and the municipal administration. For several weeks, he has been trying to get the boat being restituted.